THE
ARGONAUTS OF CALIFORNIA.
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CHAPTER
V.
THE ARRIVAL
IN SAN FRANCISCO--GOLD MACHINES--GOING TO THE MINES-- BULLWHACKER - ARRIVAL IN
HANGTOWN--E VIEW FROM THE HILL.
The city presented the appearance of a vast army encampment, and it was evident that the advance guard of Alexander's army had arrived sure enough, and had conquered what they sought. In the contemplation of the scene as we saw it from the roof of the cook's galley, we found deep consolation in the thought that in case the future would prove that we had traveled so many thousands of miles in search for gold, only to find upon our arrival that we had been badly sold, we were not alone at any rate. There was a grim satisfaction, therefore, in viewing the great number of vessels at anchor in the harbor from the various ports of the world, that had brought to the coast thousands of others for the same purpose.
Our voyage being ended upon our arrival in California, it is now, after upwards of forty years have passed since we sailed in through the Golden Gate, of some interest to know what has become of the passengers and crew of the old ship, and in fact of the ship also. The ship, after returning again to New Bedford, was fitted out for a whaling voyage and lost, I think in an ice pack in the Artic Ocean. Captain Seabury, after serving for several years as master of a China steamer in the employ of the Pacific Mail Co., and also upon the Atlantic coast from New York to Aspinwall, a few years since retired from active service, and now lives in ease and comfort at his home in New Bedford. Of the passengers, there are but three of us at present remaining upon the Pacific Coast. Many of them died here. The greater portion of them returned to their Eastern homes; but a few of them are now left, and of all that number of gold hunters, not one of them succeeded in his anticipation's of filling a pork barrel with the precious metal and but a small portion of them in filling an old boot-leg, or a beer-bottle, with the same.
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It is necessary to explain here, that the ingenuity of many mechanics in the far-off Atlantic States had been exercised in the construction of various devices for the extraction of gold from the sand and soil which were, unfortunately, mixed with it. Our passengers having full faith in their great value and efficacy, had brought quite a number of such machines with them. They were of all varieties and patterns; made of copper, iron, zinc and brass. Some of them were to be worked by a crank; others, more pretentious, having two cranks; whilst another patent gold washer, more economical and efficient, worked with a treadle. One variety was upright, requiring the miner to stand while using it. Still another, the inventor of which being of a more benevolent and humane temperament, was arranged in such a manner that the poor tired miner could sit in his arm-chair and take his comfort as he worked it.
One machine requires special mention. It was in the shape of a huge fanning mill, with sieves properly arranged for assorting the gold ready for bottling. All chunks too large for the bottle would be consigned to the pork barrel. This immense machine which, during our passage, excited the envy and jealously of all who had not the means and opportunity of securing a similar one, required of course the services of a hired man to turn the crank, whilst the proprietor would be busily engaged in shovelling (sic) in the pay dirt and pumping water; the greater portion of the time, however, being required, as was firmly believed in the corking of the bottles and fitting heads to the pork barrels. This machine was owned by a Mr. Allen, from Cambridge, Mass.; who brought with him from that renowned head-center of learning, a colored servant who was to manage and control the crank portion of the invaluable institution; and so sanguine were all passengers in regard to the nature and value of the various machines for the purpose of saving, or for the extraction of gold, that apparently nothing but actual trial could convince them to the contrary.
Their faith in all kinds of mining machinery was put to the test sooner than expected; for upon landing, we found lying upon the sand and half buried in the mud, hundreds of similar machines, bearing silent witness at once to the value of our gold-saving machinery, without the necessity of a trial. Of course ours were also deposited carefully and tenderly upon the sandy beach, from
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where, in a short time, they were washed into deep water, making amusement for the shrimps, clams, and crabs, which were of no doubt under the impression that some unfortunate Italian vessel, with a cargo of hand-organs, had foundered in the locality. It was reported soon after, that the crew of a Dutch vessel that passed near Rincon Rock close by one dark and foggy night, saw distinctly a group of sea nymphs seated upon it, and that each one of them was engaged in turning the crank of what appeared to be some kind of a musical instrument. Old Neptune was seen standing in their midst as leader of the orchestra, keeping time with his sluice fork.
We saw scattered around among the bushes near the shore, also, a great number of trunks, chests, and valises of all sizes, and the most of them containing clothing of all descriptions, in many cases of value. These had all been thrown aside as useless encumbrances by their owners, who had started for the mines, being unable to pay the extra freight charged upon them.
We found that no wharves had yet been constructed, and the tide being out, it was somewhat difficult to land without wallowing through a short distance of very dark mud.
One of the sights which attracted our attention was a newly-constructed sidewalk, commencing at the building at that time occupied by Simmons, Hutchinson & Co., and extending in the direction of Adams & Co's. express office, for a distance of about seventy-five yards, I think. In any other portion of the earth except California, this sidewalk would have been considered a very extravagant piece of work, hardly excelled by the golden pavements in the new Jerusalem. The first portion of the walk was constructed of Chilean flour, in one hundred pound sacks, and which in one place had been pressed down nearly out of sight in the soft mud. Then followed a long row of large cooking stoves, over which it was necessary to carefully pick your way, as some of the covers had been accidentally thrown off. Beyond these again, and which completed the walk, was a double row of boxes of tobacco, of large size. Although this style of walk may seem very extravagant, even to an old pioneer, yet at that time sacks of Chilean flour, cooking stoves, tobacco, and pianos were the cheapest materials to be found, for lumber was in the greatest demand, selling in some instances at $600 per M., whilst the former articles, in consequence of the great supply, were of little value.
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The town presented a strange scene. There were but few buildings; but the surrounding hills were covered with tents scattered promiscuously about, without regard to method or order.
Business of all kinds was lively, and although coin was scarce, yet gold dust answered every purpose.
Gambling houses and bar-rooms were numerous for the accommodation of citizens; but the former, for the accommodations, more especially, of the miners, who were daily arriving from the mines, and who could be seen coming from the landing place toward Adams & Co.'s express office with their sacks of gold dust, to be sold or forwarded to their friends in the East. Many, however, were forced to return again to the mines in a few days, after having struck bedrock in one of the gambling houses, in their curiosity to discover upon which end of the tiger its tail was hung; and they generally made the discovery.
We found the cost of living in the city very high, although certain articles, as flour, for instance, were plentiful and cheap. Meals at the restaurants were from one to two dollars. One of our passengers had about 80 pounds of sweet potatoes, which he sold readily for one dollar per pound, and also a few orangers (sic) which he sold for one dollar each.
The following bill of fare gives an idea of the cost of living:
BILL OF FARE - WARD HOUSE.
RUSSEL & MYERS, PROPRIETORS.
San
Francisco, Thursday, October 27, 1849.
SOUP.
Ox Tail, $1 00
FISH.
Baked Trout, White and Anchovy Sauce, $1 50
ROAST.
Beef, $1 00
Lamb, stuffed, $1 00
Mutton Stuffed, $1 00
Pork, Apple Sauce, $1 25
BOILED.
Leg Mutton, Caper Sauce, $1 25
Ham, $1 00
Corned Beef and Cabbage, $1 25
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ENTREES.
Curried Saugages, a mie, $1 00
Beef, stewed with Onions, $1 25
Tenderloin Lamb, Green Peas, $1 25
Venison, Port Wine Sauce, $1 50
Stewed Kidney, Sauce de Champagne, $1 25
EXTRAS.
Fresh California Eggs, each, $1 00
GAME.
Curlew, roast or boiled to order, $3 00
VEGETABLES.
Sweet Potatoes, baked, $0 50
Irish do boiled, $0 50
Squash, $0 50
Irish Potatoes, mashed, $0 50
Cabbage, $0 50
PASTRY.
Bread Pudding, $0 75
Mince Pie, $0 75
Apple Pie, $0 75
Brandy Peach, $2 00
Rum Omelette, $2 00
Jelly do, $2 00
Cheese, $0 50
Stewed Prunes, $0 75
An observation of the crowds of persons continually arriving in great numbers and crowding into the new city proved them to be men of an active and energetic character, who had come for a certain specific purpose, and were determined to accomplish it by all possible legitimate means; but varied, of course, as to the manner, or methods of accomplishment. We found that a portion only of those who entered the Golden Gate had any desire to extract their share of gold from the mines, but were content to remain in San Francisco, believing that the flow of gold to the City would enable them to gather in a fair pro rata of it in some business enterprise.
The monotony of a long and tedious sea voyage being now at an end, the real business, or the object contemplated in making such a voyage now commenced. We have entered upon new scenes, and a change of condition, with all of its strange events and varying incidents.
A company of us--twenty-three in number--came for the special purpose of mining, and all preparations for the proper working of such an enterprise had been made previous to sailing. We had purchased all necessary tools and instruments for the purpose in view. For these reasons, we did not linger in San Francisco longer than was necessary; but began immediately the work of putting together
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the materials of a large scow, or barge, which we had brought with us.
Upon this, when complete, we placed our effects, and with a fair wind and tide in our favor, started on our journey towards Sacramento City, at which place we arrived upon the fourth day out from San Francisco. At this place, after making a proper division of our provisions, tools, and instruments, we dissolved co-partnership as a company, each and every one going to such a mining district as best suited his inclination, or at which place, in his opinion, were to be found the richest mines. We learned here that rich gold mines had been discovered in several places besides Coloma, the point of original discovery by Marshall. Among them were Hangtown, Greenwood, Kelsey, Georgetown, and Mormon Island. The latter mining camp, located upon the American River about twenty miles east of Sacramento City, was the spot where our ex-Senator, John Connors, first engaged in the mining industry in August '49. Further north were Auburn and numerous bars upon the South and Middle forks of the American River, as well as other good mining localities in a southern direction. Sacramento City being the point of departure for all mining localities so far discovered, presented a very lively scene, and almost daily could be seen long strings of men on their way to the mines, carrying upon their backs their roll of blankets, on the top of which would be fastened certain cooking utensils and other conveniences. After selling off all stock, utensils, scow, tent and other things belonging to the company which could not be divided, we made a division of proceeds, and then every man was for himself.
Two others and myself formed a company, and after deciding upon the mining camp which we should visit, we employed a Pike county bullwhacker who agreed to deliver us and our effects in Hangtown for a certain consideration, payment invariably in advance. We accepted the offer, and in a few hours were on our way to Hangtown.
Captain Pike, as we christened him, had full control of his craft, being captain, cook, and all hands; running into port and camping when and wherever he pleased. He was a tall, powerful man, and carried an ox gad, which was about twelve feet in length, and large in proportion, to which was attached a lash made of raw-hide, long and large enough for a ship's back-stay. With this he would urge
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his cattle forward by whacking it over their backs occasionally when they were very tired; but, in general, this was unnecessary, for the crack of it, which made a report like a gun, was a sufficient inducement for them to hurry up. This rare breed of bullwhackers has now become almost entirely extinct in California. More gentle, as well as more humane, means of driving cattle have been introduced from the far east, and it may not be out of place here to illustrate this by an incident which occurred only a few months later.
A bullwhacker, with his four yoke of cattle, was driving up over the hill from Hangtown, on his way to Sacramento City. The hill was long and in some places quite steep, and the road was very crooked, winding among and around the trees. On the side of the hill was a log cabin in which were living a company of miners from the State of Vermont. The ox driver stopped in front of the cabin for a rest, and the Vermonters laughed at and ridiculed his method of driving cattle with such a monster whip, used in such a cruel manner; but Pike said that:
"Them air cattle couldn't be div any other way."
One of the boys, however, made a bet with him that he would, by the use of a little switch only, sit in the empty wagon and drive his team to the top of the hill, without accident or running against the trees. Pike accepted the bet, and with the rest of them got into the wagon.
The Yank, as Pike called him, cut a light switch, and after getting the oxen well started under way, took his seat upon the front of the wagon, and in that manner drove them to the top of the hill without any trouble whatever, to the great astonishment of the bullwhacker, as well as to the cattle too, no doubt.
"Well," says Pike, "if that don't beat anything I ever heerd tell on. I hev seen um drive a heap of cattle in old Missouri, but never seen it done with a little baby gad like that before. Blamed if I don't try it myself; you Yanks beat thunder."
I have neglected to mention that, before leaving Sacramento for the mines, many who had been up there now returning on their way home again, if they could get there, being disappointed in their expectations, and declaring that it was all a fraud, but little gold being found anyhow, and then only, as one of them told me confidentially, after you had to dig away down in the hard ground three or four feet to find it. This, of course, was not very encouraging
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news for men who had sailed around Cape Horn, and then to find that it was all a fraud; but we started on, however, as before stated, for the mines.
We passed many on their way down who had become discouraged and homesick. Among them were two or three acquaintances of mine who had been into the mines about two weeks, and were now returning to the East. They explained the state of affairs, saying that there was but little gold to be found, and that it required very hard and laborious work in the hot sun to get it, and very dirty work, too, as it was away down out of sight in the mud. They, therefore, advised all acquaintances whom they met to return with them.
We concluded, however, to continue on and see with our own eyes what the chances were, and if these men who were on the way home had really spoken the truth. It required many years to find this out; and if the great majority of miners who are now mining, and others who mined many long years, were asked their opinion in relation to it, they would be unanimous in their conclusion that these men did come near telling the truth, although unconscious of the fact at the time.
It seems to have been the opinion of many who came into California soon after the discovery of gold, that the rich metal was to be found upon the surface of the ground, and that it could be very easily scraped up and cleaned from the dirt. Consequently, there was much disappointment upon finding that it was necessary to dig in the mud and water for it. When engaged in mining, soon after, near the road many emigrants who had crossed the plains with their ox teams would stop alongside of the road and watch the process of mining. Upon one occasion an emigrant inquired:
"Wall, now, and is thet the way you fellers hes to do to get the derned stuff?"
When informed that such was the method necessary to get it, he remarked:
"Yas: well, then, I don't keer for none in mine. Gee haw, buck, jest go lang thar!"
And for this reason hundreds passed through the mining region to the valleys below.
About noon of the fourth day from Sacramento we crossed over the hill, from the summit of which the town, with its log cabins and
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tents, was visible below. We descended to near the foot of the hill, where we unloaded our effects among a cluster of pines. From this point we had a full view of the creek and portions of the various ravines, where we saw hundreds of busy men hard at work with pick and shovel. From the busy scene a spectator, who was unaware of the object of this laborious work, would imagine that an army had encamped in the locality and were at work in the trenches.
My native town was well represented, there being at this time about three hundred there from New Bedford who had sailed around
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the Horn. I found many acquaintances among them, and all appeared to be cheerful and confident of success in their new business. I should judge, after looking about and among the various flats, creeks, ravines and gulches for a few days, that at this time there were about four thousand persons altogether in town and in the immediate vicinity, but only half of them, however, were engaged in mining. The latter class was composed, at this early day, almost
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entirely of citizens of the United States, although there were a few from other countries, and all kinds of trades and professions were represented.
Here at work in the mud and water, with his gold spectacles and kid gloves, was a lawyer. Near him was a physician with his pants in his boots, sporting a plug hat. Here could be found clerks, bankers, storekeepers, barbers, hotel waiters, sea captains and mates, hotel-keepers and congressmen, nearly all from the New England States, who had come around Cape Horn to seek their fortunes.
Upon a slight elevation two well-dressed men were hard at work; they were lawyers from the city of New York, and were styled the dandy miners; they continued mining for several months and succeeded in making a very respectable fortune.
Upon the arrival of the first gold seekers in the summer and fall of '49, houses were, of course, unnecessary. Those who were fortunate enough to be the owners of tents occupied them, but the greater portion made their camps in the shade of trees. As winter drew near, however, it was evident that other means of shelter would be necessary, consequently log cabins were constructed around among the ravines and gulches in all suitable localities convenient to a spring of water. Wood for fuel was, of course, plenty. Lumber for building purposes was scarce and very dear. All household furniture, such as chairs, tables, etc., was constructed in the most primitive style, often from old barrels and boxes when convenient.
Much ingenuity was displayed by various ones in the construction of these household necessities, but more especially in the case of chairs. The miner's easy chair, which he loved to take his comfort in after the work of the day was over, was usually made from an empty flour barrel, being cut out in the proper manner and made with rockers. Some, who possessed more aristocratic tendencies, would have these chairs lined and stuffed in good style, and they were pronounced very comfortable and equal to anything that could be bought in New York or Boston.
One remarkable fact was noticed at this early day in relation to the habits of the forty-niners, when we take into consideration their isolated condition, away from the influence of civilized society, and that was in the observance of the Sabbath, for, as a general rule, all Eastern men especially were true to their early training, and rested
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from their labor, or rather from their mining labors. It was upon this day that all mending and washing was done, and other little necessary household duties attended to, for it must be remembered that the washwoman had not put in an appearance yet, but she was, however, on the way.
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On Sunday afternoons the clothes lines would be seen filled with a great assortment of woolen goods, socks, etc., the one thing needful to give all the appearance of a more advanced condition of civilization, however, was wanting, viz: the "biled shirt," which came later, and was contemporaneous with woman.
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As before mentioned, the chief amusement upon Sunday afternoons with the great majority was in lounging around the various saloons and gambling-houses; but to many, however, this part of the day was devoted to visiting the cabins of each other. There were many good singers to be found among the ravines and gulches, and upon pleasant moonlight evenings could be heard the notes of "Ben Bolt" from the boys who occupied the cabin on the hill above, while from another cabin in the ravine could be heard the refrain of "Do They Miss Me at Home," or "Sweet Home." Some, also, could be heard singing the songs we used to hear of, "Life on the Ocean Wave," "The Last Rose of Summer," or perhaps, "Old Dan Tucker," all to be concluded by the singing of "Old Hundred," "Siloam," and "Coronation," and other tunes of a similar character.
There were also many good musicians to be found among the miners. Many of them had brought their instruments with them, and often at night could be heard echoing from the ravines and cańons the sounds of the fiddle, flute, accordion (sic) and clarionet. (sic) One young man from Boston had brought with him his favorite instrument, the bugle, and when perched above upon the summit of a hill overlooking the town upon pleasant moonlight evenings, the strains of "Oft in the Stilly Night," "The Emigrants Lament," or the martial strains of "The Red, White and Blue," or "The Star Spangled Banner," from his bugle, would be heard echoing far and near, among the ravines and gulches, and hailed by all with the greatest delight.
Transcribed
by: Jeanne Sturgis Taylor.
Proofread by Betty Vickroy.
© 2008 Jeanne Sturgis Taylor.
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